Mudlarking About

I’m starting to get caught up on these posts, but I know if I lose steam, I won’t get caught up! So here I am, writing my next post while I relax in my Brighton hotel after a fun, full day (though I’ve now migrated to my final London hotel as I’m about to publish it). It’s really been a great trip so far!

Now, we’ve gotten through Tuesday and Wednesday, so Thursday should follow, right? Right. We already had a couple of things planned and ended up using our afternoon to implement an idea Charlie gave us on Wednesday. And we had lovely, sunny weather again for all of it! First up, breakfast!

Now, I’ve said before that I don’t normally eat breakfast, not because I don’t like breakfast food (I love it, in fact!), but because I just don’t typically eat at that time of day. On this day however, we had planned to go to a breakfast place that’s become a bit well-known online that Felicity had found in her trip planning. It just so happened that it’s in Bethnal Green, about a ten-minute walk from our hotel, so it was a no-brainer. Pellici’s, as you may have guessed from the name, is an Italian place, but they also do British food and are particularly known for their English breakfasts. It was an easy walk, though the temperature was a bit cooler and the clouds a bit heavier than the previous day (don’t worry though – it became perfect again later), but we reached it quickly and were able to sit down right away. It’s a small place with a very local vibe – we actually shared a table with a couple who lives nearby! And while there, the whole place sang Happy Birthday to both a local (whose sister works at the restaurant) and another random patron. So fun! And of course, we had some very tasty and VERY big meals to boot! As you’ll see below, Pellici’s isn’t shy about their portion sizes and they aren’t short on flavor either. Is an English breakfast a flavor explosion in the first place? People who don’t like baked beans in the morning may say no, but I enjoy them and this was definitely a good one! With my Coke Zero, I paid £16 and I was plenty full for hours (even though I couldn’t finish it all!). Next time you’re around Bethnal Green, give it a try! Note that they are cash-only, but they’ll happily direct you to the nearest ATM if you try to pay with a card. Check out the yumminess below!

Exterior view of a restaurant with a green awning and wooden paneling, featuring glass walls and outdoor seating.
A very unassuming place, but big on atmosphere and taste.
A full English breakfast served on a white plate, featuring crispy bacon, a fried egg, sausage, baked beans, hash browns, grilled tomatoes, and toast, with a glass of Coke on the side.
Yum! But also, ooof!

With full tummies, I was happy to get out and get some steps in to our next destination, which Felicity also chose. She does a great job of finding random, interesting things to do, so when she suggested we go to a mudlarking exhibit at the Museum of London Docklands, I immediately agreed. What is mudlarking though, I hear you ask? It’s the act of scavenging the banks and shores of rivers to find items of value or interest. And with a river like the Thames running through London, there’s a lot to find! The exhibit is called Secrets of the Thames and literally just started a few days before we arrived, though you may remember that I went to this same museum with my friends Matt and Lisa when I was here last year (that was for a fashion-centric exhibit though). I enjoyed that exhibit and the museum overall, so I figured this new exhibit would hit the mark as well!

It probably comes as no surprise to learn that a LOT of things have been found by mudlarkers over the years. Everything from false teeth to sundials to pottery to weapons and more have been found and given to the museum, though I’m sure there’s plenty more in private hands as well. Actually, in one section of the museum that’s focused on some modern mudlarkers, we learned that they’re only obligated to return items to the museum if they’re more than 300 years old (though don’t ask me how they can be certain of an item’s age). We also learned that mudlarkers must have a permit, so don’t go assuming you can trawl the banks anytime you please! After going through this exhibit though, I was left wondering if you can book a mudlarking experience with professionals or something like that. Definitely something I’ll look into in the future!

I’m hoping you enjoy the variety of photos from the exhibit below. I found it all pretty fascinating, especially given the tiny size of some of the found objects. How do people even see them sometimes??

Sign for Weavers Woodland Walk surrounded by dense greenery.
Walking through Weavers Fields on our way to the station after breakfast.
A sign at Whitechapel Station displaying directions for various train lines including the Elizabeth line, Overground, and Hammersmith & City and District lines.
We went to Whitechapel to get to Canary Wharf for our museum visit.
View of modern skyscrapers in Canary Wharf, London, including the HSBC building, with a unique architectural feature in the foreground.
I don’t come to Canary Wharf often, so it’s fun to see the city from a different POV.
Entrance to a vibrant outdoor area featuring colorful flowers and plants, with a brick building in the background.
Loved these colorful flowers near the museum! The whole docklands area has been revitalized with shops, restaurants, hotels, etc., so there’s lots to see and do. Odd to think that it was once a bustling, dirty, working docklands.

Outside the museum and then heading in at the start of the exhibit.

A display of various historical artifacts including rope, metal scraps, and rings found during mudlarking, set against a blue background with an information sign detailing their significance.
I liked this little collection of boat ephemera at the start.
A clay statue of a historical figure, wearing a helmet and holding an object, displayed in a museum setting with dim lighting and informative signage in the background.
There were three small statues like this, each of which represented a different mudlarker. The head of each statue was also replaced with an item that mudlarker has found in the Thames. Neat!

An axe head and a mug. It’s remarkable the shape they’re in, isn’t it??

The items on the left are a small tobacco bowl (the top of his head is open to place the tobacco in) and a small shell used as a form of currency in Africa. The item on the right may look like simple rope, but it’s actually tobacco twisted together for shipping, along with a pipe.

A decorative golden plate with intricate circular patterns and colored insets, displayed against a blue wall.
This shield is huge and gorgeous!
A decorative historical helmet with two prominent, cone-shaped horns, displayed against a blue background.
The Waterloo Helmet is the only viking helmet with horns found in Europe. It’s a myth that all viking helmets have horns!
A display featuring four ancient shoes and a twisted cord. The shoes vary in size and style, showcasing historical footwear craftsmanship.
Even leather goods like shoes have survived for centuries along the banks of the Thames.
Two illustrated panels depicting historical figures surrounded by floral designs, displayed alongside a worn leather item and a map fragment.
Speaking of leather, this is a leather book cover. The larger drawing above it was created to show the images on the book cover.
An exhibit display showing a collection of small wooden cubes and a metallic structure, resembling a mobile, on a textured background.
These dice are tiny and a great example of something so small that I can’t believe someone found them. They were also found to be weighted inside, meaning their owner was a cheater. 🙂

On the left is an eyeglass lens holder along with someone’s prosthetic eye, while on the right is someone’s dentures (made from real teeth, no less!).

A close-up view of a historical metal tool with a wide, flat head and elongated tines displayed in a glass exhibit case.
This was used for catching eels!
An antique sword with a leather handle and an ornate guard, displayed against a brown background with an informational label underneath.
Okay, now this is big enough to see how someone found it.
A pair of ancient sandals displayed in a museum exhibit, featuring a worn-out design with circular studs along the edges.
More remants of shoes. Wild to think that someone once walked through London wearing these.
An exhibit display featuring various small historical artifacts attached to a gold background. The items include buttons, stones, and metal pieces, arranged in an artistic manner.
Following on from the dice, these are more game-related objects, including counters and a piece of a game board.

After the exhibit, we did walk through the rest of the museum, which remained unchanged from my visit last year, but it was new for Felicity, so I was happy to go through it again. I didn’t take any additional pictures, except for this one of Felicity, to match this one, which Lisa took of me and Matt last year. 🙂

Person standing at the entrance of a building labeled 'SAILORTOWN' in a dimly lit setting with cobblestone flooring.
Looking good, Felicity!

Overall, this was a good exhibit and a nice experience! I doubt it’s something I would have found on my own, so I’m really glad Felicity suggested it! It’s running until March 1, 2026, so if you’re in London between now and then, I recommend visiting!

After we wrapped up at the museum, we circled back to previous night’s conversation with Charlie. While we were chatting, she mentioned a cool section of the Thames Path (exactly what it sounds like – a path that guides you down the Thames) that was fun and offered great views of the city. My immediate reaction was that we might do it on Tuesday (since that will be my last full day here and we have no definitive plans), but because we had a free afternoon and because the weather looked like it would be gorge, we did it today instead. What a great decision! In addition to the walk itself, we also had a drink at a cool pub and went to a random little museum across the street from said pub. It made for a great afternoon!

The aforementioned pub is The Mayflower and it was easily reached via Overground after we finished breakfast. The sun was already shining more by the time our train arrived, so just the walk from the station to the pub was grand. The name comes from THE Mayflower, the boat the Pilgrims took to reach what we now know as the USA. The pub has a book of Mayflower descendants that they’re happy to show to anyone who can prove they have a family connection to the people on the original boat, though I’m not sure what evidence is acceptable for that task. Also, randomly, this is the only pub licensed to sell US and UK stamps, so if you’re in need of either, just ask at the bar. 🙂

Exterior view of The Mayflower pub, showcasing its traditional architecture, flower displays, and signage, set against a backdrop of nearby buildings.
Always love the look of a traditional pub!
Interior of a cozy pub, featuring wooden beams, framed artwork on the walls, and patrons at the bar. A small seating area with cushions can be seen in the corner.
It has a very traditional look inside as well.
A view of a bridge over a narrow street, partially covered in vines, with a clear blue sky in the background.
Nothing to do with the pub itself (that I know of), but I found this ivy-covered skybridge to be visually interesting after Felicity pointed it out. Always remember to look up, folks!

While enjoying our drinks at the pub, we talked about going to the small museum directly across the street. Although Charlie had mentioned it to us, neither Felicity nor I had heard of the Brunel Museum (Charlie hadn’t even been there herself, nor had the barman at the pub who lives around the corner), but we figured since it was RIGHT THERE that we’d pay it a visit. It’s dedicated to the Brunel family, particularly Marc Brunel, who worked some engineering magic to build the first tunnel under a navigable river, which is still used by Overground trains today between Rotherhithe and Wapping to get under the River Thames. It’s quite a small museum, but is a decent enough experience as you get to learn about the Brunels and see the entrance shaft to the tunnel on one side of the river (you sadly can’t use the tunnel itself since it’s, you know, needed for trains). It’s small enough that, when you walk in the entrance, you can see the entire museum and its contents with a quick spin on your heels, so it won’t take you long to explore it. Don’t forget to also walk over to the separate building that houses the entrance shaft (not much to see inside, but it’s huge and kind of cool, plus there’s a short informational film on repeat inside), but you really won’t need more than a half-hour to explore this place. It’s not a “destination” museum by any stretch, but if you’re in the area (for example, if you want to do this stretch of the Thames Path), pay it a visit. I think the perfect pricepoint for what it offers is probably £5, but it’s actually £8.50 for adults. I did see they have a family ticket for £13, which gives entrance to up to two adults, plus four kids, so we went for that, making our cost a more reasonable £6.50 (we’re splitting hairs here, but always good to save a bit of money). Take a look at the photos below and decide if it’s worth it for you!

Exterior view of the Brunel Museum showcasing its distinctive red chimney and brick structure under a cloudy sky.
Outside the Brunel Museum. It ain’t big!
A detailed model of a construction technique used for tunneling, showcasing various components such as support beams and hydraulic systems within a transparent display case.
The only picture I took inside the museum proper was of this model of the great head, which was put in place to hold the water back while a big team of miners dug out the tunnel. As they made progress, the head was inched forward, ever so slowly.

Inside the entrance shaft. Like I said, not much to see, but still kind of cool.

From there, it was time to meander up the Thames Path! By this time, there were no clouds, the sun was shining brightly, and the temperature was basically perfect – not hot at all, but slightly warm in the sun and slightly cool in the shade. So…we walked! We didn’t have any agenda on this walk other than enjoying the weather, the views, and the conversation, along with taking some photos along the way. As someone who gets a lot of energy just BEING in London, this was a marvelous activity for me as it gave me the chance to walk through a part of the city I haven’t visited before and also provided excellent views of both the city and some residential areas along the way. And, probably best of all, it culminated in my favorite London view – Tower Bridge. Hope you enjoy the photos below as much as I enjoyed taking time!

Just past the museum and pub, we saw St. Mary’s Church. I always find it interesting to see small graveyards like this in front of churches, especially knowing how old the headstones are (most are so worn that they’re illegible).

A scenic riverside path lined with green trees and a black railing, showing a sunny day with people walking and enjoying the view of the water.
Getting started on the walk, with tantalizing views of the city in the distance.
Felicity remembered to get a selfie of us before we got too far on the walk!
A view of the River Thames with the Tower Bridge in the distance, featuring modern and historical buildings along the waterfront on a sunny day.
Excited to already see Tower Bridge!
Exterior view of The Angel pub located on Bermondsey Wall East, featuring a traditional brick facade, decorative signage, and a clear blue sky.
We didn’t go in The Angel, but it looked so perfect sitting against the blue sky that I had to photograph it.
View of the ruins of King Edward III Manor House with a nearby informational sign, set against a backdrop of modern buildings and green grass.
This is apparently all that’s left of a manor house of King Edward III.
A bronze statue of a cat lying on a brick wall by the Thames River, with a clear blue sky and city skyline in the background.
Kitty on the wall.

Not one, but TWO directional signs. The Thames Path does meander just a bit, so the signs pointing us to the right way to keep following it were actually helpful.

Panoramic view of the London skyline featuring Tower Bridge and various modern buildings along the River Thames on a sunny day.
You don’t always get a great view of the London skyline like this, so I thought it was pretty cool.
A view of Tower Bridge in London, showcasing its iconic towers and arches against a clear blue sky, with modern skyscrapers in the background.
Ahhh, there it is! I also thought it was fun to see the skyline “inside” the bridge.
A person smiling in front of Tower Bridge on a sunny day, wearing sunglasses with the River Thames in the background.
And of course, I had to take the required selfie with Tower Bridge.
A view of Tower Bridge in London peeking over a brick wall with a street sign that reads 'SHAD THAMES'.
The path took us a bit into Shad Thames, so I tried to get a more creative picture to represent that.

A couple of last pictures after we walked past Tower Bridge.

A view of London Bridge spanning the River Thames, with modern buildings in the background and a clear blue sky.
I only took this picture as a reminder that THIS is London Bridge, which is pretty unassuming. The other one is Tower Bridge. 🙂

I really put Felicity’s feet (and mine!) through the ringer, so by the time we crossed to the other side of the Thames, I knew it was time to have a rest. By this time, we weren’t too far from Leadenhall Market, which neither of us had been to before, so we headed for it. After walking thousands of steps, we had built up a bit of an appetite and we knew there would be plenty of options there. Would you believe where we landed?? Pizza Express! Regular readers may remember that it’s a local favorite chain of mine, so I was happy to rest my feet and enjoy some pizza. We split some dough balls (that’s kind of what Pizza Express is known for now, so why not?) and a Sloppy Giuseppe pizza, both of which hit the spot. We didn’t have time to explore Leadenhall afterwards, so I definitely want to go back and walk around more, maybe even on this trip because, as it turns out, it’s only a 15-minute walk to our hotel (though we’ve now moved to a different hotel, but it’s still very accessible).

Interior view of Leadenhall Market, showcasing the stunning glass roof and vibrant atmosphere with people dining and walking through.
It’s a visually-interesting market. Would love to walk through when no one else is there!

Dough balls + pizza = YUM!

I was happy to walk off some of that Pizza Express after our meal, so I hoofed it back to our hotel, once I realized it was about a mile away. Felicity understandably opted for the tube, so she wanted to nearby Bank to give her feet a break. We had a bit of time to chill and refresh ourselves before we had to head out again for our last scheduled event of the day, a trip to the Gallifrey Cabaret. What’s that, you might ask? Well, it’s a Doctor Who-themed cabaret show that’s very LGBTQIA+-friendly and includes several performers doing cabaret/drag-style performances in a grand old theatre building. As we were planning the trip, we thought it would be fun to see a drag show, so when I found this, I suggested it as an alternative and Felicity was happy to oblige. And it turned out that both a local-ish friend of ours plus another friend who’s visiting from the US were also going to go, so we were able to see them a bit during the show. The venue, the Clapham Grand, was easily reached via Overground to Clapham Junction (which meant we could travel there via the station around the corner from our hotel – yay!), which we both appreciated.

Was it the best show I’ve ever seen? Probably not. But I LOVED the energy there, especially knowing something like 700 Doctor Who fans were there and that those fans were really excited to be there, had great costumes, and represented a ton of diversity, which did my heart good. ❤

A historic brick building with large windows, featuring the engraved words 'LONDON BRIGHTON AND SOUTH COAST RAILWAY' on the facade. A person walks by on the sidewalk, and a red telephone booth is visible nearby.
Nothing to do with the show, but this building is right outside Clapham Junction and I liked the look of it.
The exterior of a theater building named 'The Grand', featuring red doors and decorative arches, illuminated with purple lighting against a clear blue sky.
The Clapham Grand really is quite grand!

The view from the front of the upper circle (left) alongside the view from our seats at the back of the upper circle (right). Not the best, but serviceable.

A couple of the cabaret performers.

They also had a costume contest and these pictures show just a few of the entrants. By the time everyone came up, the stage was pretty full!

Wasn’t that a good, eventful day? We did scootch out of the cabaret a little early because we were both feeling pretty tired and didn’t want to make the 45-minute train journey too late. I was happy to see my hotel bed by the time we got back, but I managed to get my first blog post knocked out before I got some shut-eye. Stay tuned for the next update about our move to Brighton (and Rye) for the weekend!

One thought on “Mudlarking About

  1. Wow, that’s one good looking breakfast!! Glad the trip is going well! Enjoy and stay safe!!Sent from my iPad

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About thejeffelston

Based in St. Paul, MN and love to blog about travel. Comment, follow, and join me on my journey!